Testimony to its excellence is the
fact it has been completely booked for the last 15 years. And,
at the conclusion of this past season, many of the guests have
already made plans to return in 2008/2009.
The superb lodge is nestled in a beautiful river valley and is
luxurious, by any angling standards. Each of the seven guest rooms
has private baths, and magnificent views. A small and intimate
experience, El Saltamontes allows only ten fishermen and four
non-anglers each week of its short season. Constructed completely
from local timber and river stones, the furnishings and final
touches reflect the Gorroño family commitment to make this
the finest fishing lodge in South America.
The cuisine at El Saltamontes is nothing
short of gourmet. Talented chefs deliver
meal after meal of mouth-watering regional specialties, guaranteed
to put a smile on your face, and a few inches on your waistline!
To accent these dining masterpieces, your host Jose Gorroño
has already started stocking the lodge cellar with a fine selection
of domestic wines for next season. The final evening you'll be
treated to a traditional “Asado,” an outdoor barbeque
complete with live, local entertainment.
About the Lodge
The infrastructure of El Saltamontes Lodge
consists of four independent buildings, all constructed
of local river-worn stone and rough hewn logs. It is the creative
mixture of rustic building materials and fine furnishings that
lends El Saltamontes Lodge its unique charm.
Electricity is produced 24 hours a day,
on the ranch by a private hydro-electric turbine. 220volt
outlets are available throughout the lodge and cabins but adapters
must be used for North American 120volt appliances and chargers.
The
main Lodge, accessed over a sweeping, curved timber deck,
is an impressive building with high ceilings and two immense fire
places. The communal living room is furnished with magnificent
antiques, cozy leather sofas and rich rugs. The adjoining bar,
with a cheery wood stove, offers another option for socializing.
It is always open but the focus is more often on fly-tying and
card games, rather than the comprehensive array of beverages.
The dining room seats a maximum of 15
people intimately around a heavy, antique
table, and a warm fireplace. Set with gleaming candelabra, silverware
and crystal, it is a feast for the eyes as well as the pallet.
Huge picture windows provide a back drop of dramatic Andean peaks.
The kitchen beyond, is always a hive of
activity into which guests are welcome.
Through the door, waft inviting aromas and friendly laughter and
banter from the domestic staff. Although the chef has an array
of modern appliances, the big wood stove takes pride of place.
If the kitchen is the heart of the lodge, the old wood stove is
its soul.
Hidden discretely to one side of this
building, is one spacious guest apartment
with a super king-size bed, a single bed, wood stove, living room,
en-suite bathroom and river views. Returning guests and couples
often request this room for its comfort and proximity.
The three guest cabins are all within a short walk from the main
Lodge and have river views. Built also of river stone, they are
solid, roomy and comfortable. Each of the cabins has two bedrooms,
accessed from opposite sides of a cozy living room, warmed by
a wood stove. All six bedrooms have recently re-modeled, en-suite
bathrooms.
Some have twin single beds, some twin
doubles and others a mixture of the two.
All rooms are designed to accommodate two guests comfortably but
in some instances, single occupancy is an option.
Nestled amongst the cabins and woods is
a spa. An open air, wood-fired, hot
tub, steams invitingly in the evenings as anglers return after
a hard day on the river. Cocktails and nibbles appear spa side
to those guests who chose to soak away the day’s exertions.
A hot sauna and a massage room complete the little Spa installation.
Just beyond the main Lodge is the “Quincho”,
a three sided building with a huge fire place. A traditional structure
on all ranches, the Quincho allows outdoor dining in sheltered
comfort. Every week guests enjoy a typical Patagonian style barbeque
or “Asado”, with a whole lamb and choice, roasted
beef. Neighbors arrive on horseback to enliven the atmosphere
with local music and it is always a memorable night.
The
Ranch
El Saltamontes Lodge is situated
within the Gorroño family ranch “Estancia Adelaida”.
The River Ñirehuao meanders through this 5,000 acre property,
nestled in an Andean valley, surrounded by dramatic mountains.
Initially, the ranch was dedicated to
the production of BEEF CATTLE. Jose
Gorroño was an innovative grazier and the first in the
region to successfully undertake embryo transplants. By introducing
fine pedigree Hereford embryos into rustic, local cows, he was
able to effectively fast track the improvement of the quality
of his herd.
During travels to Australia, Jose and
Erica were amazed at the popularity and value
of the South American ALPACAS, both “down under” and
in the USA. These docile and intelligent “Camelids”,
produce a luxuriously soft, warm fibre, which is highly valued.
The animals themselves have a special charm and there is a high
demand for breeding stock.
This prompted the couple to embark on
a new venture. They spent weeks on end, scouring the “Altiplano”,
in the extreme north of Chile, bordering with Peru and Bolivia,
at over 4,500 metres altitude (13,500 feet), purchasing export
quality alpacas from the Aymara Indians.
These were vetted and trucked south the
entire length of the country, to form
the base of what is now the largest, single herd in Chile. After
building their own quarantine station, the Gorroño´s
chartered a DC8 and exported 300 live alpacas to New York. There,
they were exhibited, bred and sold all over the country, over
a period of four years
Back at El Saltamontes, guests are charmed by the numerous alpacas
and their babies, that graze freely around the cabins. Along the
River Ñirehuao, large herds of these gentle creatures,
curiously watch the antics of the fishermen and women.
Local Chilean ladies hand-spin and weave
the natural colors of the alpaca fiber
into beautiful shawls, scarves, throws and clothing, which are
available to the anglers at the lodge.
HORSES are the other passion of the Gorroño
family and some sixty head roam the
Estancia Adelaida. Having ridden horses to school in their earliest
years, the children are all accomplished equestrians. Son Lucas
has represented Chile in international junior show-jumping championships
and placed second in Australian nationals, in 3 day Eventing.
The Chilean horse is a stocky, chesty, hardy, pony with a willing
and dependable nature. These form the basis of the working herd.
The family’s interest in equestrian sports has prompted
the introduction of other breeds such as Arab, Holstein and Thoroughbred.
Some are pure-bred, others are have mixed blood lines. One of
the favorite crosses produced on the ranch, is the result of a
Chilean/Arab hybrid. These horses are wonderful to ride and ideal
for exploring the rough terrain of the Andes.
Many anglers and their companions choose
to trail ride whilst fishing at El Saltamontes. Mounts
are selected and rides are tailored to suit each individual, from
the total novice to the experienced thrill seeker.
Anglers staying at El Saltamontes enjoy
the authentic atmosphere of being immersed
in a working ranch. Cowboys in goat-skin leggings, ponchos and
berets ride by with lean, scruffy dogs at foot. There is always
something going on in the corrals or the barn, from branding to
shearing and guests are most welcome to observe or even “have
a go” at some of these activities.
The
Fishing Program
Dave Whitlock, widely traveled author,
angler and fly designer, himself a legend
in flyfishing, wrote after a March trip that, "I've never
seen a river so full of big browns that were so totally hooked
or spoiled on hoppers as this place." John Randolph, editor
and publisher or Fly Fisherman magazine, states that the ranch's
home river, the Rio Ñirehuao, is, "arguably the best
wild, resident brown-trout river in South America and perhaps
the world." High praise, indeed, from people who have experienced
the finest flyfishing on the planet!
The Chilean government has designated
the Ñirehuao as the first study-catch-and-release
river in the country. It has been estimated that approximately
9,000 brown trout swim in each mile of the river, a mid-sized
stream that is easily waded and very user-friendly. Expert casters
often hook large numbers of tout each day, and when the "hopper
grab" is on, even novice flyfishers can expect lots of strikes,
with a monster fish an everyday possibility. The lodge record,
set during the 2003 season is in excess of 14 pounds!
Anglers who have visited El Saltamontes
in the past will attest to this remarkable fishing,
but recently the program has improved even further. Spearheaded
by innovative professional guides like Canadian Adam Henderson
and Chilean Alejandro Trepiana and their intrepid crews of local
and imported guides, the angling opportunities at El Saltamontes
have blossomed.
In addition to the homewater,
flyfishers now have the opportunity to ply pristine off-property
waters, fisheries that have in many cases never before seen a
fly!
The
Flyshop’s own Pat Pendergast describes a day exploring an
unnamed grassy, spring-fed lake that
was full of heavy-shouldered 20-24 inch browns. Wading the edges,
he'd plop a #6 Chernobyl Ant into openings in the weeds, and watch
as huge mouths engulfed his offerings. Clients have reported fishing
remote spring creeks full of feisty 12-16 inchers, rising eagerly
to large dries. For the angler wanting a challenge, Alejandro
has found locations that seasonally offer demanding small dry
fly opportunities, as well. The lodge even has rafts and pontoon
boats for day trips to local lakes and rivers.
Fishing conditions range from easy to
moderately demanding at El Saltamontes
- there truly are no scenarios that accomplished anglers would
describe as remotely difficult. The vast majority of the fishing
is done with a floating line, with rods in the 4-wt to 6-wt range.
Occasionally, a heavy rain spate may briefly cloud the water,
making streamers as effective as dries, but most of the fishing
here is done with surface flies, particularly large terrestrials.
As in most of Patagonia, breezes range from light to strong -
fortunately, the lodge has such a diverse fishing program, there
is always someplace to go to avoid the heaviest winds.
Travel Itinerary
Arrival in Santiago, Chile (Saturday)
International travelers usually arrive in Santiago, Chile in the
morning. Most of our guests transfer to the Ritz Carlton or the
Hotel Plaza San Francisco to relax for the day and acclimate.
The hotels are authentically Chilean.
The accommodations, restaurant and bar are excellent. They are
conveniently located near Santiago's best shopping, restaurants,
cultural center, and nightlife. Anglers traveling with The Fly
Shop qualify for preferential rates at both hotels. However, there
are other wonderful hotel options in the city.
Day 1 (Sunday)
After a comfortable night in Santiago, guests fly [via jet] to
the Balmaceda Air Terminal (Coyhaique). There, they are met by
hosts Jose & Erica Gorrono who escort the guest to El Saltamontes.
The trip to the lodge is about a 2 1/2 hour van trip. The drive
is accented by beautiful roadside streams and waterfalls.
Upon arrival at El Saltamontes, you’ll
be introduced to the staff and accommodations.
The Gorrono's impressive, single story lodge and ranch house sits
in the shadow of the beautiful snow-capped Andes. Each of the
lovely guest rooms is well-appointed, with a view and private
bath. El Saltamontes Lodge amenities are in stark contrast to
the remote Patagonian location. After a brief orientation and
a chance to settle in and organize tackle, anglers are free to
fish with their guides for the remainder of the day.
El Saltamontes angling is exclusively
for Brown Trout. Most fishing is done
in the Nireguao River. The rivers oxbow lagoons and excellent
water is just a stone's throw from the door of the lodge. The
Browns actively feed on grasshoppers, and the grass bordering
the stream is infested with them in January, February and March.
Anglers often release trophy Browns during the week. Other terrestrials
and dry flies are very effective throughout the short Patagonian
summer and anglers seldom have to resort to subsurface patterns.
The after angling cocktail reception always includes "Pisco
Sour", the Chilean version of a Margarita, along with a complimentary
bar and fine domestic wines. Non-alcoholic beverages are also
available. The first evening's dinner is a little later than usual
- this is to allow for a full afternoon of fishing. Dinners, like
all meals at the lodge, are informal, superb, and accompanied
by the finest Chilean wines.
Days 2 - 6 (Monday through Friday)
These are full fishing days, and the exact schedule will depend
on the guests wishes. Breakfast and dinner will be served in the
lodge. Fine mid-day meals are served in the field, streamside.
An "Asado", the traditional
South American lamb barbecue, highlights
the last evening at the lodge. Neighbors often attend the asado,
and native folk music is played - providing a memorable accent
to the trip.
Day 7 (Saturday)
Anglers will be transported to the local airport and begin their
journey home or to other destinations on their South American
itinerary