El Saltamontes
Sixteen years ago, El Saltamontes Lodge was founded on the Gorrono Ranch in the Patagonian Region of Southern Chile. The home river, the Ñirehuao is, arguably, the finest resident brown trout stream on earth.

Testimony to its excellence is the fact it has been completely booked for the last 15 years. And, at the conclusion of this past season, many of the guests have already made plans to return in 2008/2009.
The superb lodge is nestled in a beautiful river valley and is luxurious, by any angling standards. Each of the seven guest rooms has private baths, and magnificent views. A small and intimate experience, El Saltamontes allows only ten fishermen and four non-anglers each week of its short season. Constructed completely from local timber and river stones, the furnishings and final touches reflect the Gorroño family commitment to make this the finest fishing lodge in South America.

The cuisine at El Saltamontes is nothing short of gourmet. Talented chefs deliver meal after meal of mouth-watering regional specialties, guaranteed to put a smile on your face, and a few inches on your waistline! To accent these dining masterpieces, your host Jose Gorroño has already started stocking the lodge cellar with a fine selection of domestic wines for next season. The final evening you'll be treated to a traditional “Asado,” an outdoor barbeque complete with live, local entertainment.

About the Lodge
The infrastructure of El Saltamontes Lodge consists of four independent buildings, all constructed of local river-worn stone and rough hewn logs. It is the creative mixture of rustic building materials and fine furnishings that lends El Saltamontes Lodge its unique charm.

Electricity is produced 24 hours a day, on the ranch by a private hydro-electric turbine. 220volt outlets are available throughout the lodge and cabins but adapters must be used for North American 120volt appliances and chargers.

The main Lodge, accessed over a sweeping, curved timber deck, is an impressive building with high ceilings and two immense fire places. The communal living room is furnished with magnificent antiques, cozy leather sofas and rich rugs. The adjoining bar, with a cheery wood stove, offers another option for socializing. It is always open but the focus is more often on fly-tying and card games, rather than the comprehensive array of beverages.

The dining room seats a maximum of 15 people intimately around a heavy, antique table, and a warm fireplace. Set with gleaming candelabra, silverware and crystal, it is a feast for the eyes as well as the pallet. Huge picture windows provide a back drop of dramatic Andean peaks.

The kitchen beyond, is always a hive of activity into which guests are welcome. Through the door, waft inviting aromas and friendly laughter and banter from the domestic staff. Although the chef has an array of modern appliances, the big wood stove takes pride of place. If the kitchen is the heart of the lodge, the old wood stove is its soul.

Hidden discretely to one side of this building, is one spacious guest apartment with a super king-size bed, a single bed, wood stove, living room, en-suite bathroom and river views. Returning guests and couples often request this room for its comfort and proximity.
The three guest cabins are all within a short walk from the main Lodge and have river views. Built also of river stone, they are solid, roomy and comfortable. Each of the cabins has two bedrooms, accessed from opposite sides of a cozy living room, warmed by a wood stove. All six bedrooms have recently re-modeled, en-suite bathrooms.

Some have twin single beds, some twin doubles and others a mixture of the two. All rooms are designed to accommodate two guests comfortably but in some instances, single occupancy is an option.

Nestled amongst the cabins and woods is a spa. An open air, wood-fired, hot tub, steams invitingly in the evenings as anglers return after a hard day on the river. Cocktails and nibbles appear spa side to those guests who chose to soak away the day’s exertions. A hot sauna and a massage room complete the little Spa installation.

Just beyond the main Lodge is the “Quincho”, a three sided building with a huge fire place. A traditional structure on all ranches, the Quincho allows outdoor dining in sheltered comfort. Every week guests enjoy a typical Patagonian style barbeque or “Asado”, with a whole lamb and choice, roasted beef. Neighbors arrive on horseback to enliven the atmosphere with local music and it is always a memorable night.

The Ranch
El Saltamontes Lodge is situated within the Gorroño family ranch “Estancia Adelaida”. The River Ñirehuao meanders through this 5,000 acre property, nestled in an Andean valley, surrounded by dramatic mountains.

Initially, the ranch was dedicated to the production of BEEF CATTLE. Jose Gorroño was an innovative grazier and the first in the region to successfully undertake embryo transplants. By introducing fine pedigree Hereford embryos into rustic, local cows, he was able to effectively fast track the improvement of the quality of his herd.

During travels to Australia, Jose and Erica were amazed at the popularity and value of the South American ALPACAS, both “down under” and in the USA. These docile and intelligent “Camelids”, produce a luxuriously soft, warm fibre, which is highly valued. The animals themselves have a special charm and there is a high demand for breeding stock.

This prompted the couple to embark on a new venture. They spent weeks on end, scouring the “Altiplano”, in the extreme north of Chile, bordering with Peru and Bolivia, at over 4,500 metres altitude (13,500 feet), purchasing export quality alpacas from the Aymara Indians.

These were vetted and trucked south the entire length of the country, to form the base of what is now the largest, single herd in Chile. After building their own quarantine station, the Gorroño´s chartered a DC8 and exported 300 live alpacas to New York. There, they were exhibited, bred and sold all over the country, over a period of four years
Back at El Saltamontes, guests are charmed by the numerous alpacas and their babies, that graze freely around the cabins. Along the River Ñirehuao, large herds of these gentle creatures, curiously watch the antics of the fishermen and women.

Local Chilean ladies hand-spin and weave the natural colors of the alpaca fiber into beautiful shawls, scarves, throws and clothing, which are available to the anglers at the lodge.

HORSES are the other passion of the Gorroño family and some sixty head roam the Estancia Adelaida. Having ridden horses to school in their earliest years, the children are all accomplished equestrians. Son Lucas has represented Chile in international junior show-jumping championships and placed second in Australian nationals, in 3 day Eventing.
The Chilean horse is a stocky, chesty, hardy, pony with a willing and dependable nature. These form the basis of the working herd. The family’s interest in equestrian sports has prompted the introduction of other breeds such as Arab, Holstein and Thoroughbred. Some are pure-bred, others are have mixed blood lines. One of the favorite crosses produced on the ranch, is the result of a Chilean/Arab hybrid. These horses are wonderful to ride and ideal for exploring the rough terrain of the Andes.

Many anglers and their companions choose to trail ride whilst fishing at El Saltamontes. Mounts are selected and rides are tailored to suit each individual, from the total novice to the experienced thrill seeker.

Anglers staying at El Saltamontes enjoy the authentic atmosphere of being immersed in a working ranch. Cowboys in goat-skin leggings, ponchos and berets ride by with lean, scruffy dogs at foot. There is always something going on in the corrals or the barn, from branding to shearing and guests are most welcome to observe or even “have a go” at some of these activities.

The Fishing Program
Dave Whitlock, widely traveled author, angler and fly designer, himself a legend in flyfishing, wrote after a March trip that, "I've never seen a river so full of big browns that were so totally hooked or spoiled on hoppers as this place." John Randolph, editor and publisher or Fly Fisherman magazine, states that the ranch's home river, the Rio Ñirehuao, is, "arguably the best wild, resident brown-trout river in South America and perhaps the world." High praise, indeed, from people who have experienced the finest flyfishing on the planet!

The Chilean government has designated the Ñirehuao as the first study-catch-and-release river in the country. It has been estimated that approximately 9,000 brown trout swim in each mile of the river, a mid-sized stream that is easily waded and very user-friendly. Expert casters often hook large numbers of tout each day, and when the "hopper grab" is on, even novice flyfishers can expect lots of strikes, with a monster fish an everyday possibility. The lodge record, set during the 2003 season is in excess of 14 pounds!

Anglers who have visited El Saltamontes in the past will attest to this remarkable fishing, but recently the program has improved even further. Spearheaded by innovative professional guides like Canadian Adam Henderson and Chilean Alejandro Trepiana and their intrepid crews of local and imported guides, the angling opportunities at El Saltamontes have blossomed.

In addition to the homewater, flyfishers now have the opportunity to ply pristine off-property waters, fisheries that have in many cases never before seen a fly!

The Flyshop’s own Pat Pendergast describes a day exploring an unnamed grassy, spring-fed lake that was full of heavy-shouldered 20-24 inch browns. Wading the edges, he'd plop a #6 Chernobyl Ant into openings in the weeds, and watch as huge mouths engulfed his offerings. Clients have reported fishing remote spring creeks full of feisty 12-16 inchers, rising eagerly to large dries. For the angler wanting a challenge, Alejandro has found locations that seasonally offer demanding small dry fly opportunities, as well. The lodge even has rafts and pontoon boats for day trips to local lakes and rivers.

Fishing conditions range from easy to moderately demanding at El Saltamontes - there truly are no scenarios that accomplished anglers would describe as remotely difficult. The vast majority of the fishing is done with a floating line, with rods in the 4-wt to 6-wt range. Occasionally, a heavy rain spate may briefly cloud the water, making streamers as effective as dries, but most of the fishing here is done with surface flies, particularly large terrestrials. As in most of Patagonia, breezes range from light to strong - fortunately, the lodge has such a diverse fishing program, there is always someplace to go to avoid the heaviest winds.

Travel Itinerary
Arrival in Santiago, Chile (Saturday)
International travelers usually arrive in Santiago, Chile in the morning. Most of our guests transfer to the Ritz Carlton or the Hotel Plaza San Francisco to relax for the day and acclimate.

The hotels are authentically Chilean. The accommodations, restaurant and bar are excellent. They are conveniently located near Santiago's best shopping, restaurants, cultural center, and nightlife. Anglers traveling with The Fly Shop qualify for preferential rates at both hotels. However, there are other wonderful hotel options in the city.

Day 1 (Sunday)
After a comfortable night in Santiago, guests fly [via jet] to the Balmaceda Air Terminal (Coyhaique). There, they are met by hosts Jose & Erica Gorrono who escort the guest to El Saltamontes. The trip to the lodge is about a 2 1/2 hour van trip. The drive is accented by beautiful roadside streams and waterfalls.

Upon arrival at El Saltamontes, you’ll be introduced to the staff and accommodations. The Gorrono's impressive, single story lodge and ranch house sits in the shadow of the beautiful snow-capped Andes. Each of the lovely guest rooms is well-appointed, with a view and private bath. El Saltamontes Lodge amenities are in stark contrast to the remote Patagonian location. After a brief orientation and a chance to settle in and organize tackle, anglers are free to fish with their guides for the remainder of the day.

El Saltamontes angling is exclusively for Brown Trout. Most fishing is done in the Nireguao River. The rivers oxbow lagoons and excellent water is just a stone's throw from the door of the lodge. The Browns actively feed on grasshoppers, and the grass bordering the stream is infested with them in January, February and March. Anglers often release trophy Browns during the week. Other terrestrials and dry flies are very effective throughout the short Patagonian summer and anglers seldom have to resort to subsurface patterns.
The after angling cocktail reception always includes "Pisco Sour", the Chilean version of a Margarita, along with a complimentary bar and fine domestic wines. Non-alcoholic beverages are also available. The first evening's dinner is a little later than usual - this is to allow for a full afternoon of fishing. Dinners, like all meals at the lodge, are informal, superb, and accompanied by the finest Chilean wines.

Days 2 - 6 (Monday through Friday)
These are full fishing days, and the exact schedule will depend on the guests wishes. Breakfast and dinner will be served in the lodge. Fine mid-day meals are served in the field, streamside.

An "Asado", the traditional South American lamb barbecue, highlights the last evening at the lodge. Neighbors often attend the asado, and native folk music is played - providing a memorable accent to the trip.

Day 7 (Saturday)
Anglers will be transported to the local airport and begin their journey home or to other destinations on their South American itinerary

 

Comments and questions are welcome.
Please contact me at pat@theflyshop.com or call 800-669-3474